CUISINE
The King of Beasts
The Prime is in the Pork
By Tina Miller Photography by Alison Shaw
Perhaps you are visualizing the lavish, golden mane and the deep fierce roar when reminded of the king of beasts. Yes the lion is a lovely beast, but for me the real king is one of the best producers on the planet. This beast produces everything from chops to bacon to prosciutto, pancetta, hocks, sausage, ribs and even tail. This barnyard jokester with high intelligence feeds the world, and not an ounce of this generous animal is wasted, from its meat, fat, bristles, hair and skin. I am of course referring to the pig, the meat we call pork.
I have not sampled every meat on the planet. Mule, which I saw the locals eating in Sardinia on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations show, or yak or even elk, for that matter, are all foreign to me. But in practically every corner of the planet, pigs are in almost every meal. As a kid, I remember going to pig roasts. These gatherings were amazing potlucks with the whole roasted pig as the main course. This is the ultimate community supper, a Vineyard tradition and some of the best-roasted pork anywhere.
Several decades ago the meat industry changed the image of pork from fatty and unhealthy to “the other white meat.” Better breeding and feeding have produced leaner and healthier meat for the American plate. Pigs are now younger when slaughtered, lean and fit. Pork’s reputation has greatly improved. Chefs, on the other hand, love all that is “bad” about pork. You hear chefs proclaim, “everything is better with pork.” The secret is is in the fat. Bacon is revered as American as apple pie, the one meat that when sizzling in a pan could push a vegetarian over the edge. One Vineyard eatery I frequent axed ordinary peanuts as bar snacks, and instead offers Homer Simpson’s dream come true – baskets of perfectly cooked bacon nibbles with the martinis and Pinot Noir.
The majority of pork is mass-produced in this country, and the conditions are generally harsh and inhumane. We are lucky on the Island with many local farms raising pigs. We can support our neighbors and have the best tasting pork anywhere with the confidence that the animals were raised with care. And did I say taste? There is no question that locally raised pork is superior in taste and texture. A win-win.
This past summer a Vineyard family associated with sheep is now diversifying with the next generation. Bea Whiting now raises chicken for meat, and brother Everett raises pork. For the Ag Fair, Everett raised 18 pigs that were brought to slaughter days before the event. His stand and smoker – Local Smoke – was born. Everett created one of the most talked about food items at the fair, a BBQ pulled pork sandwich that was accompanied by local corn, tomato and potato salads. This run-away hit was sold out before the fair ended on Sunday.
Pork is available all year. It freezes well, so pork slaughtered in the fall is great all winter. Pork can be the main dish in the form of roasts, chops or ribs, or it can be a component, in pasta with prosciutto, or chowder with bacon, or a friseé salad with pancetta. You can bake a ham for your holiday meal, eat it for sandwiches the next day and use the bone for soup. The giving never ends, and the possibilities are endless.
Fresh raw pork such as tenderloin, sausage and ribs is consumed less in this country than the cured meat. Curing pork – ham, bacon, prosciutto and pancetta was originally done to preserve the meat. Now it’s about texture and taste. There really is a use for the entire pig. This is why I maintain the pig is the king of beasts.
Pork Chop with Braised Red Cabbage
Find thick pork chops, if possible, and go local. You will probably not find local prosciutto, but local raw pork chops are available on the IÂsland, and so much better. This combination reminds me of my time in France with braised cabbage and pork. I recommend bone-chops, as they have much more juice and flavor with the bone intact. Cooking time will depend on thickness of chops. You will have to use your judgment in cooking time. It is important to sear the outside.
1-tablespoon olive oil
1-tablespoon butter
4 thick pork chops
salt and pepper
1-tablespoon sherry vinegar
3 cups finely shredded red cabbage
1/3 cup port
1/3 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon rinsed capers
Preheat oven to 400 degrees
In a large oven-proof sauté pan – cast iron is best – heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Season with salt and pepper and sear for about four minutes on one side then turn over and sear another four minutes. Move pan to oven and bake about 20 minutes.
Remove pork from oven and set aside chops on a platter to rest, and lightly cover with foil. Put pan back on the stove and heat to medium, add vinegar, stir and scrape pan. Add cabbage. Sauté, stirring for about three minutes. Turn heat up to medium-high, add port and cook about three minutes to reduce. Turn heat down to medium, add chicken broth and capers, season with salt and pepper as needed. Combine and cook one more minute.
For more great recipes check out the latest issue of Vineyard Style Magazine.
I have not sampled every meat on the planet. Mule, which I saw the locals eating in Sardinia on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations show, or yak or even elk, for that matter, are all foreign to me. But in practically every corner of the planet, pigs are in almost every meal. As a kid, I remember going to pig roasts. These gatherings were amazing potlucks with the whole roasted pig as the main course. This is the ultimate community supper, a Vineyard tradition and some of the best-roasted pork anywhere.
Several decades ago the meat industry changed the image of pork from fatty and unhealthy to “the other white meat.” Better breeding and feeding have produced leaner and healthier meat for the American plate. Pigs are now younger when slaughtered, lean and fit. Pork’s reputation has greatly improved. Chefs, on the other hand, love all that is “bad” about pork. You hear chefs proclaim, “everything is better with pork.” The secret is is in the fat. Bacon is revered as American as apple pie, the one meat that when sizzling in a pan could push a vegetarian over the edge. One Vineyard eatery I frequent axed ordinary peanuts as bar snacks, and instead offers Homer Simpson’s dream come true – baskets of perfectly cooked bacon nibbles with the martinis and Pinot Noir.
The majority of pork is mass-produced in this country, and the conditions are generally harsh and inhumane. We are lucky on the Island with many local farms raising pigs. We can support our neighbors and have the best tasting pork anywhere with the confidence that the animals were raised with care. And did I say taste? There is no question that locally raised pork is superior in taste and texture. A win-win.
This past summer a Vineyard family associated with sheep is now diversifying with the next generation. Bea Whiting now raises chicken for meat, and brother Everett raises pork. For the Ag Fair, Everett raised 18 pigs that were brought to slaughter days before the event. His stand and smoker – Local Smoke – was born. Everett created one of the most talked about food items at the fair, a BBQ pulled pork sandwich that was accompanied by local corn, tomato and potato salads. This run-away hit was sold out before the fair ended on Sunday.
Pork is available all year. It freezes well, so pork slaughtered in the fall is great all winter. Pork can be the main dish in the form of roasts, chops or ribs, or it can be a component, in pasta with prosciutto, or chowder with bacon, or a friseé salad with pancetta. You can bake a ham for your holiday meal, eat it for sandwiches the next day and use the bone for soup. The giving never ends, and the possibilities are endless.
Fresh raw pork such as tenderloin, sausage and ribs is consumed less in this country than the cured meat. Curing pork – ham, bacon, prosciutto and pancetta was originally done to preserve the meat. Now it’s about texture and taste. There really is a use for the entire pig. This is why I maintain the pig is the king of beasts.
Pork Chop with Braised Red Cabbage
Find thick pork chops, if possible, and go local. You will probably not find local prosciutto, but local raw pork chops are available on the IÂsland, and so much better. This combination reminds me of my time in France with braised cabbage and pork. I recommend bone-chops, as they have much more juice and flavor with the bone intact. Cooking time will depend on thickness of chops. You will have to use your judgment in cooking time. It is important to sear the outside.
1-tablespoon olive oil
1-tablespoon butter
4 thick pork chops
salt and pepper
1-tablespoon sherry vinegar
3 cups finely shredded red cabbage
1/3 cup port
1/3 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon rinsed capers
Preheat oven to 400 degrees
In a large oven-proof sauté pan – cast iron is best – heat the oil and butter over medium-high heat. Season with salt and pepper and sear for about four minutes on one side then turn over and sear another four minutes. Move pan to oven and bake about 20 minutes.
Remove pork from oven and set aside chops on a platter to rest, and lightly cover with foil. Put pan back on the stove and heat to medium, add vinegar, stir and scrape pan. Add cabbage. Sauté, stirring for about three minutes. Turn heat up to medium-high, add port and cook about three minutes to reduce. Turn heat down to medium, add chicken broth and capers, season with salt and pepper as needed. Combine and cook one more minute.
For more great recipes check out the latest issue of Vineyard Style Magazine.