Now is the time for Fall soups
Story by Tina Miller
Photography by Alison Shaw

Clear days, and crisp, dry nights commence around the third week of August. By September it’s sweater weather, and the pace slows down on the Vineyard. Routines feel welcoming as the haze and frenetic pace of summer are now in the rear view mirror. School is back in session, and weekdays are again like weekdays.

Fall is hands down, my favorite time of year on the Vineyard. The days linger in a constant golden hue, and the Atlantic stays warm and extends our growing season into late fall. With the cool nights, we move our kitchens inside and leave behind the meals of summer on the deck. We turn our stove back on and begin cooking slowly braised meats, roasted vegetables and fabulous simmered soups.

Soups fill with home with warm comforting smells and tempt us to slow down. Soups can be complex all-day events or a quick meal tossed together from the pantry. Either way, soup is the ultimate fireside meal with a simple green salad, great chewy bread and a nice Pinot Noir.

Soups can vary enormously from silky pureés to chunky fresh vegetables and beans, to brothy and sparse to creamy chowders. Soup can be a very economical meal, one pot feeding a whole family. Soup can jump start your palette as a starter to a meal. Soup can be as creative as you want; it’s the perfect mood food. Soup is unpretentious and honest. Soup is soul food providing sustenance, and warmth with many ways to get there.

A few things to know about making soups: I always use yellow onion. For chicken stock, of course, homemade is best, but you can use a store bought organic chicken broth as well. Concentrated tomato paste can add richness to any soup. Use a heavy bottomed pan when making soups so that vegetables are gently sautéed and nothing scalds to the bottom. Be gentle cooking soups, medium to low heats are best.

Season to taste: some chicken stocks can be saltier than others so season accordingly. I prefer the taste of fresh herbs rather than dried when possible. When cooking with shellfish, remember that they have their own briny salt so season with caution.

Soups tend to taste better the second day when they have seasoned in the fridge overnight. I am not totally sure why except I imagine the flavors have time to settle and intensify.

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